This entertaining documentary by Stacey Peralta who also gave us Dogtown and Z-Boys showcases surfing, some of its inimitable characters, and perhaps most importantly, what keeps them coming back.
The movie's surfing footage is stunning. Its music choices enhance the enjoyability of the film, and the characters are unforgettable. Everything is very organic, much like surfing. Peralta talks to surfing vets like Greg Noll who reveal why they came to the sea and what keeps and kept them coming back. The film briefly covers early mentions of surfing and covers its presence as a counter-cultural phenomena in the '50s until today's tow-in surfing that has enabled previously unimaginable surfing exploits today.
Greg Noll was one of those rebels in the '50s and he has a big part in the movie. He offers candid, sharp-tongued, and usually dead-on insights throughout the film and one can see he would have been a force of change in the '50s and '60s simply owing to his personality. Laird Hamilton has a big part in the movie. His almost serendipitous connection to surfing - his move to Hawaii, the chip on his shoulder planted by being a haole, and his commitment to surfing.
Jeff Clark, the man who bought Maverick's to prominence, having surfed it 15 years almost by himself, also plays a key part, having been so committed and fearless. Other surfers like Evan Slater, Dave Doerner, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Buzzy Kerbox, and Buzzy Keaulana also offer comment, having been present at some many key points.
The respect for the water and the spirituality of surfing are never far from the surface, if you'll excuse the pun. It's clear that all these men and women have a lot of respect for the water and indeed, the fact that they are doing a dance with Mother Nature seems to be the thing that keeps them coming back. The footage is breathtaking - all of it - probably because I have always enjoyed boogie boarding - never able to put in the time to surf - but I've always enjoyed surfing films. But I think anyone not transported by this footage is missing something - this is a great film.
The movie's surfing footage is stunning. Its music choices enhance the enjoyability of the film, and the characters are unforgettable. Everything is very organic, much like surfing. Peralta talks to surfing vets like Greg Noll who reveal why they came to the sea and what keeps and kept them coming back. The film briefly covers early mentions of surfing and covers its presence as a counter-cultural phenomena in the '50s until today's tow-in surfing that has enabled previously unimaginable surfing exploits today.
Greg Noll was one of those rebels in the '50s and he has a big part in the movie. He offers candid, sharp-tongued, and usually dead-on insights throughout the film and one can see he would have been a force of change in the '50s and '60s simply owing to his personality. Laird Hamilton has a big part in the movie. His almost serendipitous connection to surfing - his move to Hawaii, the chip on his shoulder planted by being a haole, and his commitment to surfing.
Jeff Clark, the man who bought Maverick's to prominence, having surfed it 15 years almost by himself, also plays a key part, having been so committed and fearless. Other surfers like Evan Slater, Dave Doerner, Dave Kalama, Gerry Lopez, Buzzy Kerbox, and Buzzy Keaulana also offer comment, having been present at some many key points.
The respect for the water and the spirituality of surfing are never far from the surface, if you'll excuse the pun. It's clear that all these men and women have a lot of respect for the water and indeed, the fact that they are doing a dance with Mother Nature seems to be the thing that keeps them coming back. The footage is breathtaking - all of it - probably because I have always enjoyed boogie boarding - never able to put in the time to surf - but I've always enjoyed surfing films. But I think anyone not transported by this footage is missing something - this is a great film.