Extremely underrated film. Who makes an autobiographical film like this? About, written by, directed and narrated by the subject, including last funeral rites. Egocentric, no. It's a thoughtful reflection on a life well lived. According to the web, this was started as a book written to a son to explain a wasted life but turned into something else by chance. Much of the film was gathered for stock material for other projects but events changed plans and it became material for essay about life.
This isn't a surfing film. There's some great surfing footage and some exotic locales but it's not about surfing as much as the romance of surfing and zen and filial aspect of it. It's not a travel film either. Lots of great images but it's mostly about one man's long life that's been fortunate but hasn't escaped tragedy and trial, and how luck and circumstances plays into that. But was it a wasted life? The film starts with a quote which I'm probably misquoting so watch it yourself. "Life is a complete waste of time. Surfing is as good a way to waste it as anything else." But who says what a wasted life or unwasted life is except yourself? Some would say watching this film is a waste of time but I think it's as good a way to waste time as anything.
His reflection is also a message as he comments on the changes he's seen. No, it's not about climate change but there is some advice for future generations. But first, a history lesson. The native people of tasmania are among the longest known civilization of humans. Their culture and way of life go back thousands of years. But when white europeans started settling the area, it was a harsh environment to live in with a european background. He talks a lot about the beauty of tasmania and the film is proof of that but it's only beautiful because he's not living off the land with 16th century skills. Don't forget that england forced criminals and other unwanted to australia and australia forced their unwanted onto tasmania. But, as modern civilization has split us from nature, it's places like tasmania that have become more desirable, but as he mentions, our love for these spaces has caused them to disappear. It's not about climate change and it's not about over population. It's about how far into the future are we willing to protect these areas for future generations regardless of prevailing attitudes. But, I have to correct him on one point. He said that he lost 1/3rd of his personal space over his lifetime but it's more like 2/3rds and just if you count population growth and not tourism and exploitation.