How and why did the kind-hearted, smart and green Elphaba Thropp become such a nasty, powerful, dare we say wicked witch of the classic tale “The Wizard of Oz”? The big-screen adaptation of the Broadway musical “Wicked” uses subtle nuances to hint at Elphaba’s growing powers, but also nod to Black women.

“Wicked” follows Elphaba (Cynthia Erivo) and Glinda (Ariana Grande) as college roommates long before Dorothy, Toto and her three pals skipped down the yellow brick road and met the “good” and the “bad” witches. In the film, Elphaba is introduced as a baby who is born with green skin, is ostracized by her family as a young woman and later discovers her magical abilities.

Costume designer Paul Tazewell resonated with Elphaba’s story on many levels because, he says, “We’re talking about a young woman who was marginalized because of the color of her skin.” In designing her costumes,...